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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.